Creative Techniques for Photographers

Three techniques to add interest to your images


Today I want to talk about Creative Photography, one of my favorite topics. 

In my workshops, I most often hear students struggling to come up with a photo composition that is both meaningful and pleasing to the eye; this is one of the most challenging photography skills. While learning about technical aspects like exposure, aperture choice and corresponding shutter speed is relatively straight-forward, the answer on how to compose an eye catching photo is a far more difficult to find.

At one point in your journey as an artist and a photographer you will start wondering how to make art that invites the viewer to stay longer. What makes a picture interesting beyond the basic story line? How can you grab the attention of your audience and allow them to engage on a deeper level? 

The process of producing captivating work might seem like a long and winding road, but luckily there are a few techniques that can be used as shortcuts to create interesting effects and make your images stand out.


Let’s talk about three techniques that I often use in my own photography and that are relatively easy to apply.


Double Exposures

In this frame you see two images. The first one is an out of focus shot of two flying seagulls, the second one an in focus bird. Taken with the Lensbaby Edge 35.

A double exposure is basically two pictures on top of each other in one frame. It’s an easy way to make the viewer stop and wonder what they are looking at. Double exposures can be achieved in camera or in post-processing. You can even use apps on your phone to create double exposures. If you decide to do this in camera, simply look up your camera’s manual. Most cameras offer this option in one of their sub-menus, others have buttons to add two or even more exposures to one frame. If your camera doesn’t allow double exposures, use Photoshop to add as many images to one frame as you like. I recommend starting with two images to understand the impact of this technique. Too many images in one frame can quickly become distracting. 

Another example for a double exposure. In this frame you see the same beach twice, just from different locations. Taken with Fuji-XT2, 18 mm, f/2.8, ISO 100.

Double exposures let you easily create visual interest. You can try laying a background image under a more complicated image to create some tension or a story about two subjects like water and the sky, that you wouldn’t normally see that way in one frame. 

One way of adding interest is to play with different lighting situations. For this example I shot the first image against the sun (lifeguard tower) and the second one with the sun behind me (seagull). Taken with Fuji XT-2, 18 mm., f/2.8, ISO 100.

I love working with different apertures when I do double exposures. An out of focus, wide open shot, can look very compelling when mixed with an in-focus detail shot.

The underlying image was shot out of focus with a wide open aperture. Then I added the bird that is in focus at f/5.6.


Slow shutter photography

The outline of the person is blurry, only the left foot is still in focus due to a slow shutter speed of 1/30. The stationary landscape wasn’t effected by the slow shutter and stays in focus.

Slow shutter photography is a technique in which the camera’s shutter is left open for a long time to take advantage of how a longer exposure time blurs moving subjects and captures moving points of light. When reducing your shutter speed to 1/60 or below, moving objects start looking blurry. This can look ethereal or ghostlike. 

Combining two techniques in one frame is a lot of fun. The first image was taken at f/22, ISO 100, ss 1/15 and shows a reddish blur. I was taking this image while moving the camera in a circular motion. Then I added a regular exposure of the family at the beach (f/2.8. ISO 100 ss/1/120).

There are many ways to use this effect to tell a compelling story. To start with, lower your ISO and work with a small aperture (f/22) to slow your shutter speed. Darker scenes like street lights at night are a great subject to begin with. If you want to try this method at day time add a Neutral Density Filter to allow for slower shutter speed. 

Prism Photography

Taken with with the Saber wand from the Omni Flare Expansion Pack. It turned the headlights of passing cars into light trails.

Prism photography is a technique that uses a prism to bend, reflect, or scatter light on a subject. Prisms come in many shapes and colors, but the simplest version is basically a piece of glass that reflects, breaks or bundles incoming light. When you use a prism you can get a variety of interesting effects from light leaks to reflections, rainbow colors to streaks. 

Any kind of glass can be used as a prism. In the past I have used broken bottles, jewelry, and even water glasses to shoot through and act like a prism. Don’t limit this technique to the typical triangular prism you might have in mind. My favorite prisms are Omni filters made by Lensbaby. Currently there are three different collections available that offer a huge variety of tiny prisms, are easy to carry in your pocket and offer a wide range of effects. From light streaks to colorful overlays, there’s something for everyone. 

To start with using a prism in front of your camera I recommend:

  • Setting your aperture wide open (f 2.8 or wider)

  • Using a small wide angel lens. (The reason wide angle lenses work better is that they allow subjects to be really close to the lens. The smaller the lens diameter, the easier it is to cover your lens with the prism.)

  • Avoiding direct sunlight, because it will hurt your eyes and create ugly highlights. Instead turn away from the sun or work during golden hour.

Keep in mind the wider open your aperture and the closer the prism to the lens the better the look, because the effect blends into your image and will look very natural. 

For this image I was holding a color foil in front of my lens. (OMNI Filter Color Expansion set by Lensbaby).

Using prisms in my photography is my favorite way to create visual interest, but it can be complicated to start with. Though it seems easy, when you try it there’s a lot to learn. Play with the position of your prism, play with the direction of the light, and note how different light sources impact the effect of the prism. I find it helpful to be open to the possibilities and have no expectations. The less I plan, the more pleasant the surprises. Prism photography reminds me of painting. It takes some practice before you see results that please you. I love the therapeutic effect that this kind of photography has on me. Only when I forget everything that is going on around me and when I’m fully present in my craft, the pictures show my feelings and the mood of the moment. I think about prism photography as meditation and love how that reflects in my photography. 

Another example of prism photography. This was done using an Omni Crystal Color wand.

I hope reading these lines leave you feeling inspired to pick up your own camera. Follow me on Instagram and tag me in your posts. I’d love to hear about your experience!

Up next:

In my next blog post I will share some pictures from my trip to Oregon last month. It was so lovely to see fall colors and I enjoyed the cooler temperatures. Guess what lens I took with me? The fabulous three-in-one Trio 28. Stay tuned!

For now you can get a first glimpse of the beauty that Oregon has to offer by following our blog circle and reading Rebecca’s post. She’s a Cannon Beach family photographer and looking at her work I wish we’d had a chance to connect while I was visiting.













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